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Proton Mail seems to be well regarded if you want to go all the way to encryption. Personally, I have zero confidence that my email won't be vacuumed up by some national security apparatus no matter where in the world it originates from, so unless you go encrypted it is likely to be scanned for key words or whatever it is they are looking for (bad jokes about your beloved political leader). As far as privacy from intrusive advertising it is possible to use an ad blocker on the web and to turn off much of the targeting via the dashboard in Google and Microsoft accounts. I find that dramatically lowers the level of targeted advertising, but instead I see even worse scammy ads for things like health cures for various parts of my body. I haven't yet found a good ad blocker for my Android phone that doesn't make it unusable.
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